A Guide to Understanding Sherry: Exploring the Wines of Jerez de la Frontera

Jerez de la Frontera is a dry, windy, and often very sandy place. The sun shines incredibly brightly nearly year round, and often, the area goes without rain for considerable amounts of time. Some experts have identified nearly three hundred days a year of perpetual sunlight. One probably would not see the area as a good fit for viticulture of any sort considering the higher temperatures, but this region is home to one of the finest and most recognizable styles of wine available.

Wine has been made in the Port of Jerez since before it was even referred to as such. The Phoenicians are believed to have been the first to cultivate grapes here. Sherry wine takes its name from an Anglicization of the word Jerez, though Jerez itself if believed to have come from its Arabic name Sherish, which is thought to have been transported to Spain via the Moores in the seventh century. These hordes of bandits from the south occupied large swaths of Spain, and are thought to have introduced the practice of distillation, one of the prevalent storage-friendly and style-defining practices local to this region.

It was during this seemingly unfortunate occupation of the Moores that Sherry began to have distilled grape spirit added to the must to stop fermentation and further highlight the wine’s natural light flavors of almond, vanilla and spices. Today, all Sherry is fortified, but there are many different variations ranging in sweetness. Due to Islam’s prejudice towards drinking, the

Caliph of Córdoba, occupying ruler of the Iberian peninsula at the time, ordered that the vineyards of Andalusia be torn up to prevent debauchery.

The people of Andalusia appealed to the Caliph on behalf of their vines, extolling the virtues of their wonderful tasting grapes and raisins, of which the Caliph himself did enjoy. Their appeals were heard and the majority of vineyards ended up spared. It was nearly four hundred years before the Caliphate would be deposed, and the harvest would once again fall into the hands of the Christians. Under the new ruler, Alfonso de Castille, the amount of wine and grapes produces in Andalusia would nearly quadruple.

It was during this time that trade and expeditions were quite popular, and the ready conquistadors, colonists, and crusaders alike were apt to take transportable wines with them on their journeys, and the fortified wines made in the Port of Jerez were a natal choice, considering the convenient production location to overseas and Mediterranean travel alike. This, coupled with the wines fortified and often permissible oxidation, meant that these wines were sea-bound. They were notably the style of wine loaded aboard the Niña, Pinta, and Santa Maria when the ships left for the New World.

It was the English who eventually would take nearly total control of the seas through military prowess and intelligent diplomatic relations. As in the case of Bordeaux, the English of course had their favorite wines for nearly every situation. The trick seemed to be finding a storable, conveniently located, inexpensive wine from a region of high production suitable for cargo rations aboard her majesty’s vessels was a challenging task. It wasn’t until the British takeover of the Port of Gibraltar that access between the Mediterranean and the Atlantic was solely in British custody, and the conveniently located wines nearby were ripe for the purchase.

British soldiers tend to love their rationed creations, and desire to enjoy them post-war from the comforts of their homes on into their twilight years. This is the case, of course, for Port, Madeira, hop-preserved India Pale Ales, and Sherry is no exception. Sherry grabbed a large foothold over the English wine market from that point on and was exported to England in vast quantities. Fraternal bodies were organized to govern its production and British entrepreneurs swooped in excitedly to buy up vineyards and own production houses. To this day lining the Sherry shelves you will see a very impressive bastion of English wine culture notable in an array of bottles clad with names like Harvey's, Hartley and Gibson, Fairbanks and so on.

Sherry is made necessarily from the Palomino grape, a white grape that displays characteristics of dry tea and white apricot. It is a neutral grape relatively speaking, which presents incredible opportunities in fortification process, for intricate and unexpected complexities associated with the finished wine. There are three types of Palomino, with Palomino Fino being the most esteemed, and the other two versions, Palomino Basto, and Palomino de Jerez. All three are used in Sherry wine, but the Fino version is the most well-planted and tends to represent the finest and most elegant of the selections. It also is the lightest mouthfeel wise, which is important for a fortified wine where alcohol can often add pounds garish metaphorical weight.

Some Sherry is also made from Moscatel, which can act to add nuttiness and some more sweet-raisin complexities to the final sweet wine, but is generally usable only in small quantities. It is also the least planted. The second most planted grape is actually bottled generally with very little addition of Palomino Fino, and it is known as Pedro Ximenez. This grape is extremely sweet and is allowed to overripen in the sun for weeks at the end of the season to get the best pronouncement of complexities possible. After fortification, this grape leaves loads of sugar in the final product, and its nutty, creamy character is incredibly desirable when paired with deserts.

Jerez de la Frontera (Sherry at the Boarder) is recognized as the first DO (Demarcated Origin) in all of Spain, and that’s important because Spain has a long, rich history of wine culture. The DO today glides loosely around what’s known colloquially as the Sherry Triangle. This spoken region flows around the sand-stricken vineyards surrounding the towns of Sanlucar de Barrameda and El Puerto de Santa Maria.

This area is of course a permanent desert, but is readily exposed to the eastbound winds of the Atlantic Ocean, adding highly desirable seaward saltiness and saline to the wines made here as well as allowing some retention of acidity via their cooling effects. Vines are trained high and often spread very well distantly in their Guyot amidst the sand in order to allow these breezes to blow out in between the canopies and prevent disease. It is also not uncommon for a producer to choose to be a bit more timid with canopy management to prevent sunburn.

It’s not all sand beds for the grapes grown in Jerez, in fact, the insinuation of such comes off as quite derogatory. No, most all sherry vines find themselves predisposed to a few favorable soil types throughout the triangle. Albariza soil is the most common and is the most suitable for Palomino. It is quite a sandy soil, albeit a bit more moisture retaining than is often given credit for. This light-colored soil is roughly forty percent white chalk limestone, and grey clay in most cases. In some corners of a given vineyard it van be rather moisture wicking, where in others, it is on the well-draining side. Regardless, the addition of chalk makes this a cooling soil which is soothing during the hot days of the summer.

Arenas is another soil type which is quite common and useful for Palomino Fino as well. It tends to occupy some of the more distant plots closer to the sea. It is a more yelled soil with higher concentrations of sand, and far less chalk. Often very little clay is present making these soils much hotter year-round when compared with Albariza.

Barros is the last major soil type, and this rich brown and more fertile soil is found higher up on the plains surrounding the primarily Ximenez-based DO of Montilla-Moriles. These soils are rich in iron, and take on a deep brown hue. They have a slightly higher nitrogen content which accounts for the often far earlier ripening of these grapes. There is very little chalk in Barros, only about ten percent, however, the vast majority of the soil’s composition is not sand, but clay instead, making these soils much better at retaining water and cooling the vine.

Sherry is made in the winery. It is one of the few fine wines around that’s flavor is decidedly based on the technique of its manufacturers, and not the more favorable vineyard conditions so much. This is partially because of the fortification of the Sherry, and partially because DO law requires the use of the Solera system, and wines are labeled and sold based on stylistic preference, not necessarily by vintage or terroir, or varietal as is common on other world wine labels.

First, let me tackle the Solara system itself. This is the medieval process by which these wines have traditionally been made, and accounts for a grandiose amount of a wines final flavor profile. Solera itself means, “on the ground.” The process begins with a three-rung string of barrels stacked on top of each other. The latest vintage is aged on the top rung of barrels, and begins to develop a protective layer of special yeast known as Flor. This flor adds creaminess to the wines and an intense nuttiness the longer it remains in contact, yet it still allows the wines to remain vibrant and fresh, good for pairing with seafood.

The lower sherry barrels are never topped off as to allow the wines to oxidize, however, overtime these barrels will lose more and more wine due to alcohol’s evaporation. This effect is sometimes referred to as the Angel’s Share. As more wine is aged and lost to this effect, so the top barrels become are drained off into the lower rung of barrels to be blended with past vintages. This blending has the effect of adding youthful zest to some of the older wines, while still allowing the aging product to show the full force of its tertiary characteristics. The top rung of barrels is contunuously replenished with the latest vintage, and so the lower barrels are continuously refilled with new wine. Thus, Sherry is never labeled with a vintage, though most Oloroso bottles will be an average of four years old at the least.

The alcohol fortification of the wines aged on this top rung of barrels must bender fifteen point five percent, to retain its Flor. The Flor also only allows for minor oxidation of the wine during the fermentation process. Neutral grape spirit is added as the wine continues to age. Wines labeled Fino and Manzanilla will be allowed to develop this flor. These wines are incredibly dry and satiating.

The difference between Manzanilla and Fino can actually be quite astonishing. Manzanilla is essentially a type of fino, as it is made similarly, but which comes specifically from an area within the Sherry triangle known as Sanlúcar de Barrameda. This specific area is very close to the sea, and offers more maritime breezes. With those additional currents comes a definite aura of salinity. Manzanilla itself means Chamomile. Some oft notice a more hearty herbaceousness, and floral character though to be caused by the strains of yeast found on these vines. Manzanilla will sometimes undergo extended aging periods longer than the prescribed three years for Sherry often resulting in oxidation. After this extended aging, these wines are called Manzanilla Pasada and they show some more funkiness and nutmeg-like character.

By contrast, when general Fino wines from the surrounding counties undergo this extended aging process and oxidation, they are referred to as Amontillado. These are arguably the most prized dry wines available, because they still retain their lightness, and make great food-friendly compliments for lighter dishes, yet seemingly are a blast of almond-hazelnut-like complexity that is so enjoyable. These wines are somewhat darker in color reflecting more of an amber hue.

Oloroso, or “scented,” wines are those that have all been aged three or more years and generally linger around twenty percent alcohol by volume, which is enough to kill any flor, and protect the wines while they oxidize. Olaroso wines ar emade from the start to be Olaroso wines, and do not share the same breadcrumb trail as Amontillado and Fino. These wines retain a salinic freshness, but are far heavier in weight and body. They can pair well with heavier foods, but make good standalone glasses or excellent additions to a Charcuterie board. They are darker in color and far richer than Amontillado. Besides Pedro Ximenez, these are often referenced as flagship bottles for a manufacturer.

Palo Cortado is a continuation of the Amontillado aging process, and presents fuller, darker and richer flavors of roasted pistachios, stout cream and espresso. These richer wines are often made due to an excess of a vintage destined to be Amontillado, but end up caught in the Solar system even longer. A producer may last a vintage of Amontillado, decide it needs more aging, and allow it to pass on down further. These wines are excellent value and are meant to be enjoyed with a high level of respect and appreciation for complexity.

Palo Cortado is an incredible starting point into the world of sherry, due to its aged and profound complexities, displaying the full breadth of what Sherry has to offer. If you're looking for a fabulous, and widely available entry point into the world of Sherry, seek no further than N.V Williams & Humbert Dos Cortados Palo Cortado. This bottle is aged twenty years via the Solera system, and is an incredible example of Sherry. With toasted almond character and a dazzling hint of italian espresso, this wine is enveloped in tertiary oxidative character. Pistaccio and caramel make up the beef of the wine's profile and compliments the wines rich body.

Pedro Ximenez, also known as Dulce wines are sweet wines with at least two-hundred and twelve grams of sugar per bottle and in most cases are actually meant to be enjoyed on their own. The are made nearly entirely of the Pedro Ximenez grape, with the addition of some sparse Moscatel for added weight. Pedro Ximenez is the king of all grapes in Jerez and is very widely celebrated. For this reason these delightful sweet wines tend to be the most cost burdensome. The more poetic among us write of espresso bean, orange peel, caramel, and toasted almond, with indulgences of black licorice and earthy cheese. Whatever the case, these wines are some of the finest in the world.

Pedro Ximenez wines are aged for distinctively longer than some other types. High acidity allowing for residual sugar can be a blessing as is the case with Sauternes, because it is possible to keep these wines for a very long time without risk of spoilage. Wines labeled Vinum Optimum Signatum (VOS) are aged twenty years, while those labeled Vinum Optimum Rare Signatum and these bottles have been aged for thirty years.

Cream sherry is a blend of various aged sweet sherries from around the Sherry Triangle, and often represents blends featuring higher proportions Palomino Fino and Moscatel than Pedro Ximenez. Cream Sherry is a misnomer because there is no cream involved, though these more affordable wines do show hints of creamy texture by some of the finer producers. These are most commonly used in cooking today.

Because of all of the various styles of Sherry produced under one roof at any given time, crafty Sherry makers invented a numerology that could be imprinted on the barrel to give clarity to the help during blending season, and keep track of yields. These symbols were Witten on the barrels by the cellar master, known as a Capataz. These symbols were so vague, that as the wines aging progressed, they could be modified at any time by the cellar master to reflect its current presentation. Today, you can sometimes find homage to these symbols on the bottles. The symbols themselves are known as Rayas, and they are stick-like indicators of quality in early stages of development.

I - Fino/Amontillado, not to exceed 15.5% alcohol.

I. - Oloroso 17.5%.

II - Needs to develop further before being used. Aged to 15%.

III - Development issues to be distilled into grape spirit.

The latter stages of development will see additions such as these to indicate the bottling of the wine itself. See the above demarcating symbols next to the titles of the wines above.