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Looming within the easternmost embankment of the Andes, high above the cloud-cover lies a small Mecca of white wine, in a country known primarily for the velvety darkness of its red wines. Salta is unlike any other wine growing area in the world. Its predominant grape is a local, originating on the continent of South America, yet is still a Vinifera grape. Its rustic, desert soils, rich with alluvial copper and silt provide little in the way of fertility, but coarsen the wines resolute phenolic structure, while the distant sun imprints fresh perfumes.
Salta is a state located in the northwest corridor of Argentina, bordering Bolivia and Chile, within the northern desert climate of the country. As discussed both in the Texas Hills and Plains article, and my last article on Naoussa, in high-altitude plains, diurnal shift is a major arbitrating factor in determining the phenolic and flavor nuances of the grapes grown in these areas. The region sits at a whopping ten-thousand feet above sea level, or around three-thousand meters, which makes Salta the highest grape-growing plains in the world.
Like Naoussa, this is a cold-climate region, in a generally hot-climate country and area. The territory of Salta is deathly close to the equator, yet sits so high in its elevation the effects of lower linear latitude are nearly irrelevant apart from the guaranteed dryness of the region, and the affliction of all-day-sunlight. The effect of the dryness in the area is that grapes can ripen well into the latter seasons without running into mold or the odd noble rot, which can be a problem for the thin-skinned variety, Torrontés which is the predominant white here, but more on the grape later.
Despite being Argentina’s fourth largest wine-producing area, Salta is only responsible for about one percent of Argentina’s total wine production. This can be attributed to the fact that the bulk of wine produced here is drunk locally, and not exported - the vast majority of production is tub wine for glugging in bars, and general lubrication. Only the really stellar examples are ever exported. Furthermore, not a whole lot of wine can be produced here due to the altitude and the feisty climate for grape-growing.
The majority of grapes grown for whine production here, are grown in the town of Cafayete, and just north in the valley as well. The city is the main tourism and industrial hub of this area, and there’re plenty of great café’s, bars and The rain shadow here allows for protection from the elements, such as hail, that are common across the border in Chile, and along the Andes.
The mountainous blockade from cold-fronts and alpine currents is an added benefit as well. All-day sunlight helps to ripen the flesh, and sweetness of the grapes, but more importantly, smoothen some of the harsh phenolic properties of the skins.
Just like in all parts of Argentina, the beauty of these northern landscapes exudes adventurism and exploratory excitement. If you like hiking, or just spending time outdoors this is an excellent wine region to tour, and despite the awe-inspiring views and generally remote location, Cafayete winemakers are apt to help you navigate their vineyards, and wineries. North of Cafayete, is an incredibly awe-inspiring drive on a pass referred to as Quebrada de las Conchas. This pass gives way to the northern wineries of Salta at even higher altitudes.
Here in Argentina, there are about a combined 8700 hectares of vineyard space filled the greenish-gold native grape known as Torrontés. This masterpiece of trial-and-error vine-crossing came about as a new-world experimentation, born in Argentina. These grapes fit into the large category of Criolla grapes, Vitis Vinifera grapes that were crossed and successfully maintained in the Americas. Criolla grapes, are also known as Paìs, or Mission in the US. These were the first grapes planted in the new world mainly by Spanish missionaries, hence the name, Mission.
Torrontés, then, by DNA documentation, is a crossing between the hearty, boring red jug wine, Mission, and the light, aromatic, Muscat of Alexandria grape. Wines made from this grape are generally a full-bodied white, with piercing acidity and incredible aromatics, reminiscent of white Lilly, white pepper, lavender, jasmine and peach. Critics compare good Torrontés to the aromatics and floral presence of Gewürztraminer, or Viogner.
But as states, this wine does have the presence, acidity, and mouthfeel of Sauvignon Blanc, with its weighty neutrality and slick acid. Torrontés is loaded with green flavors as well, that add a third dimension to its overall flavor. It’s minerality, mostly due to the esters from fermentation, this being marginally affected by altitude and climate, as well as the yeast strains attached to the skins, is profound and elegant especially from the Riojano clone of Torrontes.
Just as Pinot Meunier is to Pinot Noir, there are several close-knit varieties that make up the family of Torrontes grapes in Argentina: Riojano, Sanjuanino, Mendocino. The former is the most desirable in terms of quality, especially in reference to aromatics and overall mouthfeel. Sanjuanino is a close second, matching color, and consistency somewhat closely to Riojano, however its aromatics fall short of the mark and palatable flavors are lacking the same substance.
Mendocino, on the other hand, is hardly the same grape. They are larger, yellow-gold grapes with not much flavor profile, brisk acidity but nothing else to make it stand apart from, say, a Pinot Grigio on a crummy bar wine list. Practically all notable outcroppings of the Riojano variety are Salta native, and anything bottled in Salta is going to be Riojano variety Torrontés.
One thing of note with Torrontés, is its incredibly finicky nature and need for near-constant attention in the vineyard. Pruning is a must, and ridding the vineyard of low quality fruit is too. This allows the vines to focus their attention and mineral uptake on usable fruit and keeps yields low. Too high of yields results in watery, flabby wine very easily. The terrain alone is not enough to keep yields low, and is often too fertile for quality wine, due to its temperate climate and red dirt.
If you are seeking an amazing Torrontés to try from Salta, look no further than El Povenir Laborum Finca El Retiro single vineyard Torrontés. This is a delightful example of the excellence that can be achieved in Salta with this grape. In the glass, this wine is lively, and exciting, with aromas of roasted quince, apricot, muskmelon and coriander, and a very enticing bouquet of hibiscus. The acidity is striking, but not as forward as Sauvignon blanc. The fruit gives way to stone, acacia wood and sawdust.
Perhaps the most well-renown, and prominent example of Torrontés from Salta is probably that of San Pedro de Yacochuyo. This winery can be accessed via Cafayete. It is one of the more popular wineries to tour, and its a great place to relax and grab a bottle, or enjoy a glass and take-in some incredible views. The wine, however, is about the perfect compliment to this atmosphere, its woody-worn saddle undertones are followed on by saber-like acidity, honeyed melon, stone fruit, lychee, whipped cream, stewed quince and slate. Very Riesling-like flavor profile.
That's all,
~K