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In 2003, in an effort to strengthen Spain’s blossoming wine market, the Government of Spain decided to launch a new vineyard classification to help differentiate the levels of quality being produced in its major wine-growing regions. This initiative was to demarcate the highest level of quality that a producer could be held to: wines that not only displayed excellent craftsmanship, but also spoke of the wonders of Spanish terroir.
In a way this designation is often compared to the Cru Classé system of Bordeaux, but on a national scale, and certainly fetching nowhere near the premium. Vino de Pago (VdP), was the new demarcation, and back in its formation in 2003, only three labels were selected for this prestigious honor; however, as of this year, there are twenty winemakers able to label their wines with this designation. Mercifully, the label itself often comes with increased international availability, as well, meaning a lot of these incredible quality wines are available to us yanks.
This system exists entirely separate from the Dominación de Origin system, but is kind of like a quality award to wineries within that system, that already meet the standards of their geographical winemaking region. Among with the requirements from their region, all grapes used in winemaking must be from the domain’s estate, and wines must have a reputation for consistency and quality. The grapes must also be sorted and fermented at the facility of the winery, and the wine must be aged entirely at the bodega as well. Everything must be done on-site.
At the price these wines often sell for, they’re a steal for the level of quality, and the ease with which they pair with food is simply unheard of, most anywhere else in the world. They are fantastic value, and make great gifts, they also age as well as any wine from France of Italy and they taste great young as well, which is often a major difference between some Bordeaux and quality Spanish wines. The consumer has much more flexibility with their purchase, and I’d argue, a lot more enjoyment. Allow me now to introduce you to some examples of Vino De Pago from incredible wineries located in a few different regions of Spain, and share some pairing suggestions for you.
Marques de Griñon is the winery that occupies the Valdepusa area, just outside of Toledo. This vineyard was the earliest established Vino de Pago, and also now of the very largest with over five-hundred hectares of different grapes. The vineyard consists of Cabernet Sauvignon, Garnacha, Syrah, Tempranillo and smaller plots of Petit Verdot.
Interestingly, this winery is irrigated using a complex system developed by Richard Smart, famed Australian viticulturalist. Notably consistent with viticultural practices in Spain; Terragon, Thyme, Rosemary and Lavender are also grown on the property in between the vines. This enhances the micro-biome of the vineyard, and helps to indirectly coordinate which critters are able to pollenate and thrive there.
As such, the bees are plentiful; being attracted to lavender naturally, and the vineyard is very colorful, vibrant, and lively. This is reflected in the incredible wines they make there. The soils here are a mix of terraformed schist and clay, that help to cool the vines during the hot central-Spanish summer. As I discussed in my article about sunburn, it is important to regulate every vector of temperature that grapes can experience, and clay drastically reduces root temperature, storing cool water in pockets in the ground.
Slate-schist can also be found here, especially where Garnacha and Tempranillo are planted. This adds complexity and minerality, as roots are forced to dig deeper and suffer trying to find more nutrients lower down in the soil. The older vines here are especially good parents of handsome fruit.
I have had the good fortune of being able to try all of the wines from this winery, including their delightful, robust, coffee-scented Cabernet, their incredibly powerful and complex Syrah, and even their fierce and floral Petit Vedot. My favorite was the limestone-grown Petit Verdot and Syrah blend known as Caliza, it also happens to be their most affordable option.
The wine itself is opulent, yet it’s extremely powerful, especially in youth, presenting flavors of dark dry cherry, blackberry bramble, and raspberry liqueur. Delightfully, it’s the Petit Verdot in the blend that really got my attention, providing the necessary undertones of earthiness to balance the explosive fruit flavors and heat. Notably this aspect is also very light and mineralic, adding soft perfume and silky nuance.
The biology of the vineyard imparts undertones of rosemary, thyme, lavender, even some lighter honey, and apricot flavors. The minerality is incredible - notes of granite flake, sand, and pumice. This is an extraordinarily complex wine, definitive and discernibly Old-World flavors with New-World presence.
Terrerazo is another fantastic Vino de Pago that’s been around since the beginning of the demarcation. This winery, known as Mustiguillo is locate in Valencia, just north east of Valdepusa. The vineyard is eight-hundred meters above sea level, and consists of Dolomite limestone over sand. The high altitude here is close in height to that of Etna Rosso, if you read my column about how altitude affects wine growing. Altitude has cooling affects on grapes, and delays the ripening of the flesh of the grape. Increased sunlight in this area of Spain helps to soften the tannin, as the exposure to the sun ripens the skins, but the lack of heat preserves the flavors in the wine and prevents them from becoming jammy especially in warm-climate grapes.
The soils here being limestone also add to the much-needed warming affect as limestone retains heat, and sand is very porous and draining, so the water table sits low, also preventing water’s cooling effects, and the excess of water on the roots for long periods, which can lead to rot and other such problems.
The specific wine from Mustiguillo, that is most captures the terroir of this Vino de Pago is the delicious Bobal-based Finca Terrerazo. Part of what makes this wine special is the Bobal grape, a thick skinned, tannic, yet still relatively light, fruity and expressive grape that originates here in Spain and is a perfect war-climate grape for the Valencia region. It was known in the past for low-quality bulk wine and grape concentrate, but with some upgraded terroir, like that in Valencia, and some more adequate soil, the grape is making some gleaming examples of excellent quality wines.
Finca-Terrerazo dual-aged in new French Barrique that hold 225L, and them mixed with other examples aged in 500L barrels. This adds just enough flavor of oak, and also allow tannin exchange between the barrels without too many of the secondary characteristics of oak that are usually wright on by overlooking such as butter and clove. The wine has some hints of oak, but predominantly noticeable is, agin the very Spanish flavors of fresh herbs.
Here there is a definite oregano and tarragon essence that is complimented by firm minerality of quartz and dusty slate. The main fruit characteristics are of the wine are dry black cherry, redcurrant, and fresh blackberry. There are some hints of cedar and nettles as well, though in typical Spanish fashion this wine is brash and bold, and finishes hot.
To the far north, at the foothills of the Pyrenees, there are the amazing wines of the Arinzano VdP, also having had their Vino de Pago designation for a very long time, being the very first in Northern Spain to be awarded the honor. The wine produced on the estate is made by Propiedad de Arinzano, which has been producing wine here in on and off since 1055. The most recent iteration of the winery opened in 1988, and produces some smashing examples of VdP from french grapes Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, and the ever-Spanish Tempranillo.
Because this winery is at the foothills of a mountain range, there is a shadow affect o the vineyard which means that the grapes are shielded from the harsh northerly weather, and rains. The climate here is a maritime climate, due to the wind from the Cantabrean sea, and nearby Ega river that moderates temperatures here in the vineyard, ensuring grapes don't ripen too quickly. The temperature here and the weather are, then, extremely moderate and well controlled; Perfect for higher yields.
That’s where the soil comes in. Arinzano is comprised of one-hundred and twenty-eight hectares of varying topographical terroir. All of their twenty different plots produce grapes at varying altitudes, sun exposures, and of different varietals, meaning this property is a paradise for a winemaker. The different terroir can be blended, aged, and melded into symphonies of perfection in the glass, and expressed through their respective blends.
As such, soils here vary depending upon the vineyard. Throughout all of the vineyards the soil gives little depth to the bedrock. In the Monteco vineyard, there is natural calcareous breakup of limestone, and silt. This combination gives wine depth of flavor and helps to keep the roots warm. It also means that vines need to dig down to bedrock to find adequate nutrients, which is good for overall wine quality and depth of flavor. Tempranillo is grown in these vineyards.
Oppositely, in Plano 22, a flat plain with gravel soils of marl and clay, Cabernet Sauvignon is grown as this finicky grape prefers the better drainage of this area. You may be familiar with the gravel soils of Bordeaux, the reason that Cabernet isn’t grown on the clay soils of the right bank is because of a few poor vintages in the forties that forced producers of the left bank to switch to the better acclimated Merlot, all due to poor drainage. The evenly diffused sunlight, and slightly lower elevation also help cabernet to ripen properly, especially in the fall when it starts to get chillier around the Pyrenees.
The wine that best represents the combined terroir of this regions is the lovely Arínzano La Casona. The grapes used here are Merlot, and Tempranillo. This wine is delightfully dusty and earthy, characteristically un-Spanish, more French in my view. Though the mid palette of the wine does lend to black olives, and rosemary, as well as some marjoram.
This wine’s fruit characteristics are black, but hit later. Here I noticed some blackcurrant jam, nettles, and dry prune. The fruit was bone dry and herbal, like a lozenge. Mushroom and black truffle shavings also jumped off the juice to me, though there was not a crazy rich mouthfeel, in fact this wine went back very nicely, without even an expected bite of alcohol. Grapes used here are Merlot, and Tempranillo.
That’s all,
~K
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